PIMP MY PLATE HOLDER
How to go dual-sport in New Hampshire
by Kelly Heim
This is my dirt bike, a 2006 Honda CRF 223cc four-stroke that I converted to a dual-sport using a Baja kit. The conversion cost roughly $700 (not including tools). When I got the bike I didn't know a socket wrench from a tire iron, but I learned some important lessons. If you're an inexperienced dirt bike owner, read my tips so you won't have to "reinvent the wheel."
1. WHAT KIND OF BIKE?
Moto or enduro? You can convert either type, but the latter is obviously easier and cheaper since you won't have to change the suspension and the regular maintenance schedule is much less intense than with a motocross machine. Enduro is the way to go also because the fuel tank and other components are intended for longer distances and generally you won't have to rebuild your engine every 6 months. The Honda CRF230F and the Yamaha look-alike are made for beginners, are inexpensive (MSRP is about 3600 USD) and tend to live a long life if properly cared for. Usually it's easier to replace parts on Japanese bikes--the parts are cheaper and more readily available, to which any KTM owner can attest.
2. FOUR OR TWO? A four stroke engine is generally more suitable for converting because of cleaner emissions and less noise pollution, but not essential. I don't think NH requires emission tests on motorcycles. You won't need the power-to-weight ratio that a two stroke offers when you're on the road, unless you like to peel out at stop signs (dumb idea). The four stroke bike requires more know-how to maintain if you're a beginner but if you love dirt bikes you'll learn as you go.
3. DISPLACEMENT. The bigger the better. 400's are more expensive but worth it. I chose a 225 because I am only 5'7" and I like my feet to be able to touch the ground at stop signs. But with proper gearing, more horsepower = more speed.
4. GEARING. You will probably want to change the bike's gear ratio if you are planning on cruising at speeds over 40 mph. A simple sprocket and chain switchout will do the job in most cases. If done properly you can get a comfortable 50 mph out of a 225cc bike. You will sacrifice performance on the bottom end, so it's important to evaluate the topography of the roads/trails you'll be riding.
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED
Metric socket set- 10mm to 24mm and ratchet, 3/8" drive
Torque wrench, 1/2" drive
Set of flat head and phillips screwdrivers
Allen wrench
Tire iron
MotionProŽ chain tool
Bike stand or lift
Regular metric wrench set
A good power drill
EQUIPMENT YOU WILL NEED TO BUY
Dual sport conversion kit for your make and model (www.bajadesigns.com)
Digital speedometer/odometer (Endurance)
Mirror
DOT tires
Trickle charger
Motorcycle chain guard (this is tricky)
Sprockets with desired teeth number and chain (Sidewinder sprockets are best)
OTHER EXPENSES (& INCONVENIENCES) TO EXPECT
Inspection fees (about $35- just expect to be ripped off)
Registration fees (around $80/year for my bike)
Motorcycle permit and testing (a NH permit is $30)
Hauling your bike before you're legal (find a friend with a truck and make a wooden ramp using a ramp kit)
Where to start?
1. Call your town hall and confirm that you can legally register an off-road motorcycle that has been converted and has passed official inspection. Also call your local motorcycle inspection station to confirm that they will pass a bike that has the modifications you plan to make.
2. Order the Baja kit and other parts listed above. Also order new sprockets and chain if you want to tweak the gear ratio.
3. Make a chain guard out of plastic or order a metal one fabricated for a sport bike. Some will fit your swingarm, some wont. This is the most annoying part of the process. It has to cover the entire upper chain. Measure your swingarm and rear sprocket dimensions and search the web for small sportbikes' chain guards and order a bunch-- just return the ones that don't fit. You will annoy the hell out of the vendor but versions made specifically for dirt bikes are impossible to find.
4. Install the Baja kit. It will contain a headlight panel, brakelight and rear directionals, plate holder, horn and handlebar control apparatus and a whole bunch of wires. You will need to remove the number plates, seat and fuel tank (make sure the fuel line is OFF!) to thread a series of wires along the frame. You'll need to drill a hole or two for the brakelight switch installation. It actually shouldn't take more than a few hours. Then replace the tires, mount the speedo/odo and mirror.
5. Test the speedo/odo before inspection. Also test the horn, lights, directionals, high beams and brake light.
6. Change the sprockets and chain if desired. If you change the rear sprocket, the bike will need to be on a lift/stand to allow removal of the rear wheel. Once the sprockets are in, remember to inspect the chain slack and to properly torque the rear axle nut.
7. Mount the chain guard. I had to insert a wedge of rubber on the proximal swingarm to get the angle right so the chain did not touch the guard. It takes some creativity.
8. Inspection #1. If the bike passes, the mechanic will write an official statement for the town hall or DMV stating that the motorcycle meets state requirements for an on-road vehicle. Remember your bike is NOT street legal until step 13.
9. Registration. Take the document to the town hall or DMV and register the vehicle. If they are in a good mood (avoid mondays), they will give you license plates and registration stickers. Remember your bike does not have an actual title--it has a certificate of origin that says "not intended for highway use" and you have to convince them that your bike passed inspection. And as long as there are no lienholders on your bike, you will be able to keep the C of O.
10. At the DMV, ask for a motorcycle endorsement if you don't already have a licence. It is about $30. Once your bike passes the second inspection, this will allow you to ride anywhere except on interstate highways and after dark.
11. Mount the license plate and reg sticker. Buy a keg and roast a pig to celebrate. Invite the McGraths.
12. Inspection #2. This is the real inspection. Before you go, re-test all the points in #5. Also remember to bring the registration document you obtained from the DMV or town hall. When your bike passes, the mechanic will give you a NH inspection sticker (usually mounted on the suspension fork) and a document for your records. Make sure to keep all documents related to your bike conversion organized safely in a folder.
13. Buzz around town and show off your swank ride. Wear a helmet.
TIP: Since the electrical equipment on your bike puts an increased demand on the battery (even when your bike is in storage) be sure to charge it with a trickle charger overnight every couple of weeks if you're not riding regularly. During winter storage, take the battery out and charge it every 30 days.